Equuleuscia Eleutheria's Cosplay

Posts Tagged ‘tutorial

Hello!

Here’s the Vampire Princess Miyu Lava mask tutorial that I promised before I left for my trip to Taiwan. Sorry for the delay!

You will need:

  • Paint Markers (or Acrylic paint if you prefer)
  • White Canvas Mask (try not to use a plastic mask, so it will be easier to use pencil to draft your markings on the mask)
  • Cotton Thread of about 30cm X2
  • Clipboard
  • Newspaper torn into strips
  • White glue

Step 1: Do the Homework

I emphasize this step, because it is the only way to make sure that you are making an accurate a prop as possible.

Look out for pictures that feature

  1. The whole mask
  2. Sides of the mask
  3. Closeups of the details on the mask

Note that Lava’s mask is asymmetrical. Here is an example from rushita.com

Step 2: Cover the eyes

Usually, the masks that you get from craft shops and all have holes cut out for the wearer’s eyes. As seen here from coraporage.blogspot.com

However, Lava’s mask design doesn’t allow for this. So, you’ll need to use paper mache to patch up the holes. Start from the back of the mask. Paste long strips across the eye hole, enough to cover the hole plus a little excess. This will allow for a “base” from which you can reconstruct the “eye” area from.

When this layer has dried, you will notice that from the front of the mask, there is a “dent”, where the eye area is. This is because the newspaper layer is too thin to “fill up” the dent. Add multiple layers and smoothen the edges from the front of the mask.

Step 2: Markings on Mask

The mask is not a flat surface, but a contoured surface with lots of curves. Drawing straight lines on surfaces like this can be a challenge, so let me share a little trick with you.

Tie the pieces of cotton thread onto the clip on the metal clip board as such. Make sure the thread will not come loose from the clip, but you can still slide the thread side to side on the clip.

Place the mask below the metal clip and lay the thread on the mask. When you pull the strings taut, you will have a guide for you to follow to draw a straight line on the mask.

While drawing the markings, it is useful to have some pictures for reference nearby. It is useful to use a pencil to draw out sketches first, so you can erase them and re-draw till satisfied. You can even draw on the paper mache surface, provided it is completely dry.

Step 3: Painting the Mask

I am not an artist fluent with paintbrushes, so I’m really grateful for the invention of markers. They are more user-friendly, at least for me. It is easier to get smooth consistent strokes from them.

Before you start painting, you may want to mark out the final sketch of markings on the mask with a black oil-based marker. Do check that the marker comes out matt black instead of glossy black. Some “black” markers even come out as dark purple. Take care not to draw the lines too thick. The lines on Lava’s mask are rather thin.

I am painting the colours in this sequence: Grey>Black>White>Red

Paint in long smooth strokes in one direction. If one stroke is not enough to cover the canvas smoothly, go over it again later. Do not go back and forth, you may rub off some canvas from the mask from the sharp metal nib of the painty markers. Take care not to paint over the outline.

All grey parts of the mask coloured, in addition with the 4 “tadpoles” on Lava’s masks. Remember to draw a line for the mouth.

For the white spot on the “tadpoles”, you may need to paint over multiple times to build up an opaque enough layer to cover the black. Be patient and let the paint dry between layers.

You can “cover” mistakes by going over them in white painty marker as well. For me, I outlined the markings with white painty marker as well.

Fill in the rest of the parts you need before painting Lava’s left eye.

Same as painting the white spots on the “tadpoles”, you need to built the red paint in layers.

And viola! You have your mask!I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and please feel free to contact me should you have enquiries (:

Photos from my Miyu photoshoot will be up soon, stay tuned! ^^

Let’s all make the cosplay community a more pleasant place!

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Konnichiwa Minna-san!

I hope you are having a lovely day ^^

You may have known from the “Done” tab above that I have cosplayed the Romeo & Cinderella Miku. That shoot had an all female crew, because I didn’t think I would feel comfortable with a male crew, especially with the rather awkward poses.

Photographer and Makeup artist: Etterorua Red
Kaito: Tesun

Anyway, this is the original PV of the song

Alternate PVs that I found.

Okay, back to topic. I hope this tutorial will serve as a useful guide for those out there who plan to cosplay the Romeo & Cinderella version of Miku.. I believe this can serve as a guide for similarly clothed characters as well as Romeo & Cinderella version of the other vocaloids, which have different colour schemes.

You will need:

  • Red Sequins
  • Black Lace
  • Dressmaking Pins
  • Nylon Thread
  • Cotton Thread
  • Sharp Sewing Needles
  • Super Glue/Cloth Glue
  • Hot Pink Long Tube Top
  • Hot Pink Underwear
  • Black Elastic Braid
  • Camisole (that you usually wear)
  • Long Ruler

Step 1: Top

Miku is wearing black laced red polka-dotted lingerine.

  • Tube top
  1. Using a ruler, place sequins (as markers) 5cm of each other using 0cm, 5cm, 10cm, 15cm etc… as a guide for row 1.
  2. Move the ruler to be below your markers (as shown in picture)
  3. Using a ruler, mark out dots 5 cm of each other using 2.5cm, 7.5cm, 12.5cm etc… as a guide for row 2.
  4. Repeat Step 1 to Step 3 until you reach the bottom of the tube.
  5. You should get your desired pattern as shown.
  6. Place cardboard inside the tube to prevent glue from seeping through and gluing your tube shut.
  7. Proceed to glue and sew them down. If your sequins are too small, glue a few together to make a larger sequin.
  8. Remember to have sequins for both front and back of your tube.
  9. Decide which side of the lace faces towards the top of the tube and which face of the lace is to be the surface where the glue is applied. (Note that left and right side of lace is slightly different in below picture)
  10. Pin the lace down with dressmaking pins to stabilise position on tube. Cut away extra lace.
  11. Place cardboard inside the tube to prevent glue from seeping through and gluing your tube shut.
  12. Glue the lace down before sewing. It will the lace easier to sew.
  13. Remember to Repeat Step 9 to Step 12 for front, back, top and bottom of tube top.
  • Spaghetti Straps
  1. To determine length of straps, measure the length of camisole straps, add 1cm to that measurement and cut elastic braid accordingly.
  2. If width of elastic braid is too small, sew 2 together using nylon thread.
  3. Secure lace onto elastic braid using dressmaking pins, make sure to leave a 1cm gap.
  4. Glue down lace before sewing lace onto elastic braid.
  5. Determine which side of lace faces the wearer and which side of lace faces away from wearer. (note in above picture that left and right side of lace is slightly different)
  6. To determine position of straps, place camisole inside the tube and note the position of the straps on the tube top using dressmaking pins.
  7. Glue elastic braids down to double confirm their position before sewing.
  8. Remember to make 2 straps, 1 each for your right and left shoulder!

Step 2: Bottom

  1. Following Step 1 to Step 8 from “Tube top”, you should get the desired pattern as shown below.
  2. following Step 9 to Step 13 from “Tube top”, apply lace as desired.

Complete!

You can use leftover lace to make a garter or use it as a prop for your photoshoot, as I did 🙂

Miku wears a white cardigan and a black pleated skirt in some of the fanart, so you may want to include that in your shoot. Also, bring many many apples! I spent half the shoot going through the apples that Tesun bought for the shoot. Haha

Hello all! Here’s the promised Tutorial for Yuffie’s (Collapsible) Shuriken. I will do my best to give you a detailed step-by-step tutorial. Do note that it is my first time making Yuffie’s Shuriken, so some parts of the tutorial could have been done simultaneously to save time. Shown here is how I made my shuriken in chronological order. Feel free to contact me for enquires about how to make! 🙂
Let’s all make the cosplay community a more pleasant place!

I suggest that you read through the whole tutorial and write down the list of things you need before you start. I didn’t include a “Things you’ll need” list because you may use a different material/method for making your own shuriken.

Step 1: Do the homework

You will have to look up pictures from your game consoles, internet, fanbooks and more. The more pictures you have, as well as the higher resolution they are, the easier for you to draft out a design in your mind.

Look out for pictures that
1. Feature the shuriken alone
2. Feature closeups of details on the shuriken
3. Yuffie posing with the shuriken at various angles
Tip: Look up websites that sell Yuffie’s Shuriken or Yuffie’s costume, they sometimes have useful closeups that you can save for reference

Step 2: Do the measurements

To make a Shuriken that will turn out roughly the correct proportion, you’ll need to do a little measurement. A little trick that I do is, take a picture featuring Yuffie posing with the Shuriken, where the Shuriken is placed in a straight angle. Here, I’m using a picture from Camera Store HK.

Copy and crop portions of the shuriken you want measurements of and put it against line it up with Yuffie’s legs, arms or torso. This will give you the rough gauge of how big the weapon should be.

As you can see from the red dotted boxes here, I measured the length of the blade and the handle separately. The length of the blade, is roughly equivalent to the length of Yuffie’s leg from the ankle to the top of her knee. Thus, I will need to make the blade as long as the length from MY ankle to the top of MY knee. Using this trick, you’ll save a lot of trouble trying to figure out the right proportions and size of the weapon.

Step 3: Record the measurements

This would sound redundant, but trust me, sometimes people do forget. Get a picture of only Shuriken alone and write out your measurements. Don’t forget to label them with arrows, least you forget which measurement is for which.

Step 4: “Disassemble” the Shuriken

I wanted to make a collapsible shuriken so I could easily travel with it. Therefore, my shuriken would need to be pieced and un-pieced like a jigsaw puzzle. Planning out the parts of this puzzle was a little tricky, but fortunately, Yuffie’s shuriken isn’t too complicated a prop to “disassemble”. I’m not an artist, but I managed to come up with an idea and drawing of the pieces to this shuriken puzzle.

As you can see, I separated the handles and the blades. The handles were going to be made up of 4 rectangular pieces, with a notch cut out in the middle for 2 of the 4 pieces (ignore the numbers on the picture, I tweaked my plan as I worked to make it more feasible). Since Yuffie’s shuriken has a round hole in the middle of the handle, all 4 pieces would have a circular cut-out in the middle as well.

The triangular pieces which served as the blades were just going to be fitted on the ends of the rectangular pieces. 2 Triangular pieces would be glued together to make 1 blade. A slit would be made at the middle of each triangular piece to make the blade “pop” out a little and make it a little more 3D.

Holding all the handle pieces together would be a little toilet roll that would be pushed through the circular openings of the handles when they are stacked together, cut to size.

Of course, the plan would be much simpler if you would like to make the shuriken in 1 (non-collapsible) solid piece.

Step 5: Materials

Of course, how are you going to make the shuriken if you cannot decide on the material to make it from! Haha. I decided to make the blades and handles of my shuriken from cardboard and the nuts and bolts using chair leg protectors (LOL). If you’re not sure what I’m referring to, take a close look at the handle of Yuffie’s shuriken and you’ll notice some knobs along the bar.

I just used plain red ribbon for the ribbon on the shuriken on Yuffie.

Step 6: Handle

Well, since you have your reference picture, draft drawings, measurements and materials, it’s time to cut your materials to shape. Be sure to draw out your measurements onto the materials before you pick up your penknife/scissors!

First, I drew out the dimensions of the handles on a piece of cardboard. You can do this individually if you don’t have a cardboard that is large enough. The first and third line are the guides where the notch would be cut out on 2 of the 4 handles.The length between them is the width of the handle.

Tip: Make sure the length of the blade is longer than you would like. You will need to accommodate for the portion of handle that will be covered by the blades when you fit the pieces together. If not, the handle will turn out to be shorter than measured when you fit the shuriken together.

The second line is the middle line, to be used as reference for the circular cut-out later on.

After you are pleased with the lines drawn, slice the cardboard along the lines to make 4 handle pieces. DO NOT CUT along the lines that you have drawn in the middle of the pieces to be used as guide lines for the notch and circle.

Now that you have your 4 pieces, pick any 2 pieces and cut out a notch. Take care not to tear your handle piece into 2. To be safe, you may want to cut out a few more pieces of handles to accommodate for errors.

Label the handle pieces WITHOUT notches 1 and 4, and label the handle pieces WITH notches 2 and 3. This is the order by which they will be stacked. Pieces 2 and 3 should have their notches FACING each other. The notch will be used to secure the handles together, while pieces 1 and 4 are used as reinforcements.

Make sure that pieces 2 and 3 fit snugly. Pieces 1 and 2 are supposed to be in line with each other and glued together later on. Same for Pieces 3 and 4.

Step 7: Blades

A useful tip to make sure that you will not cut slanting blades, is to mark out the middle of each cardboard piece you are going to use for the blades. For that, I drew little black dots on the cardboard for reference, before I started drawing the outline of the blades and cutting them out. Make sure you cut out at least 8 triangular pieces for the blades.

Next, for the “pop” and 3D effect on the blade, draw a straight line down the middle of the base of the triangular piece to the tip. Using a penknife, slit along the line. As deep as you did for the notch in Step 6. Likewise, make sure not to cut through the cardboard.

When you are done, bend the cardboard to stretch out the slit a little. The triangular piece should form an inverted ‘V’ shape when placed on the floor.

Proceed to coat your cardboard pieces with a layer of white glue on both sides.
To make things less messy, coat one side, let it completely dry, then coat the other side. Make sure to do this twice, so your cardboard pieces are coated with 2 layers of white glue.

You can choose to paper mache the cardboard pieces if you wish.

Step 8: Spray Paint!

Please work in a well-ventilated area and cover your work area with LOTS of newspaper. The newspapers I used were not enough and I ended up spray painting the floor as well.

Line your cardboard pieces out, close to each other but not touching, to save space and paint. Spray a layer of lacquer on top.

Next, you could use metallic spray paint if you like, but I find them too expensive to bother. So I used a different technique instead. You will need at least 2 colours for this technique. I used DPI Anchor 29 Flat Black and DPI Anchor *3P Premium Silver for this technique.

Holding your spray nozzle about hip level, lightly mist the spray over your cardboard pieces. No need to worry if the paint does not fully cover the cardboard. You are supposed to build up the colour in light layers. Repeat this step, alternating between the colours. You may want to let the paint dry completely every 2 layers.

Make sure you lightly mist the cardboard with your finger pressing onto the nozzle with constant pressure. Otherwise, you will get ugly spots like these.

The desired result should be as below. A nice mix of black and silver to give you a mimic metallic appearance 🙂

Don’t forget include the chair leg protectors while you are doing spray painting!

When you are satisfied with the result, let the paint completely dry before spraying 2 coats of lacquer on the pieces. Make sure you let the lacquer dry between coats!

Step 9: Blades II

Tip: Be generous with the glue

After all your cardboard pieces have dried, it’s time to partly assemble the pieces together! Starting with the blades, pair up the triangular pieces and glue the sides with white glue firmly together. Please remember to leave the base open as shown in the pictures! Remember to let the glue dry completely!

Step 10: Handle II

So while the blades are drying, you can start work on the handles!

Using the middle line as a guide, use a compass to draw a circle. Make sure you leave a sufficient gap between the side of the cardboard piece and circular opening so that the sides of your handle will not be too flimsy. Cut out the circular piece.

When you are done with cutting all the circular pieces from all the 4 handles, stack them together accordingly and make sure the circular opening stacks properly as well.

Step 11: Connecting Tube

When you are satisfied with the circular cut outs, paper mache the toilet roll and cut to desired length! The way I did it, I just slotted the paper mache-d toilet roll into the opening made by the 4 stacked handles and shaved off the excess length.

Step 12: Blade III

So, when your blades are completely dry, you’ll see this ugly tell-tale sign that shows the world that the shuriken is made up of cardboard ):

Fear not! Use paper mache! 😀

Make sure to cover the sides completely. Be careful to keep ONLY the sides covered. Leave to dry completely before attempting the next step.

Using the technique shown in Step 8, spray paint the sides. You may want to position the blade such that the paper mache side faces upwards.

Step 13: Finishing Touch!

Before you glue handle pieces 1 and 2 together, 3 and 4 together, piece together the shuriken and see if the handle can support the weight of all the blades. If not, add in reinforcements sandwiched between pieces 1 and 2, as well as 3 and 4. I reinforced my handle pieces with ice-cream sticks since I do not have access to tools that can cut wood pieces. Ice-cream sticks can be cut using scissors! However, it can be tedious work since ice-cream sticks are quite small. This technique is not shown as it is a “secret” non-circulated tip that a friend shared with me.

So… When you are done with gluing the handle pieces together, remember the chair leg protectors you painted? Yup, just stick them onto the handles as desired. Remember that Yuffie’s shuriken has a red ribbon wrapping parts of the handle, so do add that as well.

Finally, when all the glue, paint and lacquer is dry, piece the shuriken together and there you have it, Yuffie’s (Collapsible) Shuriken! Time to head for an event/photoshoot!

photo by Sleepycs

Good luck making yours! 🙂

For those who are interested to see how the photoshoot turned out, stay tuned to this space or watch my deviantart! 🙂


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